Summer Tomato Tokku

A South Indian Pickle That Celebrates Peak Season Tomatoes

There's something magical about late summer tomatoes – those heavy, juice-laden beauties that practically fall off the vine into your hands. When your garden (or farmer's market haul) is overflowing with gorgeous heirloom varieties like deep purple Black Krim, the sweet and productive Genovese, or the stunning striped Nineveh tomatoes, it's time to think beyond simple salads and pasta sauces.

Enter tomato tokku – a concentrated South Indian pickle that transforms pounds of fresh tomatoes into an intensely flavored condiment that will brighten your meals for months to come. This isn't your typical preserve; tokku is a thick, oil-rich pickle that's both condiment and side dish, perfect for spooning alongside rice, stirring into yogurt, or spreading on warm flatbread.

The beauty of this recipe lies in its complex umami flavor and the way it amplifies the natural sweetness and acidity of ripe tomatoes. As the tomatoes slowly cook down, they concentrate into a jammy paste that marries beautifully with aromatic spices and the nutty richness of sesame oil. The result is a complex, deeply satisfying pickle that captures summer in a jar.

Tomato Tokku Recipe

Serves: Makes about 2 cupsPrep time: 20 minutesCook time: 1 hour

For the Tomato Paste:

• 2 pounds ripe tomatoes (I used a mix of Genovese, Black Krim, and Nineveh varieties)

• 7 cloves garlic

• 2 tablespoons chili powder

• 1 teaspoon turmeric powder

• 1 tablespoon salt

• 1 tablespoon tamarind paste

For the Tokku Spice Mix:

• 1 tablespoon fenugreek (methi) seeds

• 2 tablespoons mustard seeds

• 1 tablespoon cumin seeds

For the Tempering:

• ½ cup sesame oil (divided)

• 1 teaspoon mustard seeds

• 15 fresh curry leaves

• 6 large cloves garlic, chopped

• 3 dried red chilies

Instructions

Step 1: Cook the Tomatoes

In a large pot, heat ¼ cup of sesame oil over medium heat. Add the tomatoes along with a 1/2 tsp of salt. Cook, stirring frequently, until the tomatoes completely break down and become pasty – this will take about 15-20 minutes. The natural juices will evaporate, leaving you with a thick tomato base.

Alternatively, preheat the oven to 450°F and bake these tomatoes for 30 minutes or until half the moisture is evaporated.

Turn off the heat and add the garlic cloves, chili powder, turmeric powder, salt, and tamarind paste. Using an immersion blender (or transfer to a regular blender), blend everything into a smooth, fine paste. Set aside.

Step 2: Prepare the Spice Mix

In a dry skillet over low heat, toast the mustard seeds, fenugreek seeds, and cumin seeds until fragrant and lightly golden – about 3-4 minutes. Be careful not to burn them. Let cool completely, then grind to a fine powder using a spice grinder or mortar and pestle. This is your tokku spice mix.

Step 3: Final Assembly

In a large, heavy-bottomed pan, heat the remaining sesame oil over medium-low heat. Add the mustard seeds and let them pop and splutter. Quickly add the curry leaves (they'll splutter quite a bit), chopped garlic, and dried red chilies. Sauté for about 30 seconds until the garlic is fragrant.

Add the tomato paste to the pan. This is where patience becomes your friend – the mixture will bubble and splash quite vigorously. Reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring frequently and scraping the bottom to prevent sticking. You'll see the mixture gradually thicken and darken.

After about 20 minutes, when the paste has reduced by roughly half, add 2 tablespoons of your tokku spice mix. Continue cooking, stirring regularly, until you see spots of oil beginning to separate at the edges of the pan. This final stage takes about 30 minutes total on medium-low heat.

Taste and adjust salt and spice levels as needed.

Tips for Success

Choose the right tomatoes: Ripe, flavorful tomatoes are essential. The mix of varieties I used brought different qualities – Genovese for sweetness, Black Krim for depth, and Nineveh for beautiful color and balanced flavor.

Patience with the splashing: This recipe will splatter oil and tomato mixture as it cooks down. Keep the heat low, use a splatter screen if you have one, and resist the urge to rush the process.

Storage: Once cooled, store your tokku in clean, dry glass jars in the refrigerator. The high oil content acts as a preservative, and it will keep for several months.

Serving suggestions: Serve alongside rice and dal, mix into plain yogurt for a quick raita, spread on toast, or use as a flavor booster in curries and stews.

This tomato tokku is summer preserved in its most concentrated, flavorful form – a little jar of sunshine to brighten the darker months ahead. The slow cooking process might test your patience, but the deep, complex flavors that develop are absolutely worth the wait.