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Heerekai Kootu/ridge gourd with Masoor Dal

  • Writer: Savitha Enner
    Savitha Enner
  • 5 hours ago
  • 3 min read


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During one of my recent visits to India, In the half-light of a Mysore kitchen at dawn, I watched an elderly woman's hands move with the certainty of ritual. She grinds fresh coconut against stone, the white paste bleeding into pale green coriander and the rust of cumin seeds. This is how kootu begins—not so much drama but a devotion toward nutrition.

Here is another Indian home cooking story that lives in their vessels and on their tongues. Some dishes announce themselves: the aggressive tang of sambar, the ceremonial weight of a wedding biryani. But kootu? Kootu whispers.


It exists in that liminal space between dal and curry, between everyday and essential. Ask any home cook in South Karnataka's heartland to distinguish it from sambar, and watch how their faces shift—a flicker of protectiveness, perhaps even pride. "Kootu is different," they'll insist.

Where sambar shouts with tamarind's pucker, kootu speaks in softer syllables. The vegetables change with seasons and whim—ash gourd's mild sweetness one afternoon, ridge gourd's delicate bite the next, sometimes the iron-rich promise of greens. But the alchemy remains constant: lentils for substance, coconut for richness, spices for memory.

This is not food for Instagram, not cuisine that travels well to restaurant menus. Kootu belongs to the realm of the everyday sublime—the kind that appears on steel plates three, four times a week, pooling gently against mounds of rice. It's thicker than its cousin sambar, more nuanced than plain dal, carrying within it the very terroir of Karnataka's coconut belt, where palms bow under coastal winds.


Ingredients

For the kootu:

  • 1tbsp whole Mung bean

  • ½ cup masoor dal (red lentils)

  • 8 methi seeds/fenugreek seeeds

  • 1 large tomato ( optional)

  • 2 cups ridge gourd (heerekai), peeled and cubed

  • 2 cups water

For the coconut paste:

  • 1 teaspoon cumin seeds

  • 1 tbsp urad dal 

  • 1 tbsp coriander seeds 

  • 4 dried red chilies

  • 1/4 cup freshly grated coconut


For tempering:

  • 1 tablespoons coconut oil or ghee

  • 1 teaspoon mustard seeds

  • 1 sprig curry leaves

  • 2 Tbsp peanuts or sliced almonds 

  • A pinch of asafoetida (hing)

Instructions

Cooking the dal and vegetable:

Start by rinsing the masoor dal thoroughly under running water. In a pressure cooker, combine the dal,tomato, mung beans, methi seeds, and 2 cups of water. Pressure cook for 2 whistles or until the dal is soft . Remove the cooked tomatoes,and the ridge gourd to the same pot. If using a pot, cook covered on medium heat for about 15-20 minutes until dal is well-cooked.




Making the coconut paste:

While the dal cooks, heat a small skillet and add urad dal, cumin, coriander, and chillies. Toast them until fragrant. Add 1/4th tsp turmeric, fresh coconut, cooked tomato, and blend this to a smooth paste.

Bringing it together:

Once the pressure releases naturally, open the cooker and mash the dal mixture lightly , add the cubed ridgegourd and the ground coconut paste, stir well, cook for another 5 minutes until the veggie becomes soft but still has a bite. Add more water if you prefer a thinner consistency and simmer, allowing the flavors to meld together.

Tempering:

Heat coconut oil or ghee in a small pan. Add mustard seeds and let them splutter. Add peanuts or almonds for crunch and toast them. Toss in the broken red chilies, curry leaves, and asafoetida. Let the curry leaves crisp up slightly. Pour this tempering over the kootu and mix gently.

Serving Suggestions

Serve this heerekai kootu hot with steamed rice, a dollop of ghee, and your favorite sambar or rasam. It also makes a wonderful accompaniment to chapatis or parathas. The mild, creamy texture of this dish makes it especially appealing for those who prefer less spicy food.

Tips

  • Choose ridge gourds that are young and tender with a bright green color. Older ones can be fibrous and bitter.

  • Masoor dal cooks quickly, so avoid overcooking to prevent it from becoming mushy.

  • Adjust the red chilies in the coconut paste according to your spice preference.

  • For a richer version, finish with an extra teaspoon of ghee stirred in just before serving.



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© Savitha Enner

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